mirrored glass sculptures
The light reflected in the glass is beautiful, giving the sculpture a new dimension.
This structure is my previous \"Low-
Poly paper sculpture.
We will start this project from the finished paper model.
You can also apply the same technique in the last few steps to apply the finish to any sculpture you have, but I will create a mirror rabbit from a low rabbit
The paper model I made.
If you haven\'t already done so, I would also recommend making models using strong cards.
Come here and see my paper sculpture!
You need glass mosaic tiles-the smaller the tiles, the better.
I used the 10mm * 3mm glass mirror tiles I purchased on EBay.
Two packs of 500 tiles are just enough for my rabbit to eat.
Adhesive brands like \"Unibond\"
No more nails or \"spam\" is great for the job.
They are usually packed in a hard plastic cartridge that you can use without a cartridge gun.
2 Part polyurethane resin-I purchased my resin from \"mbglass.
Although the resin is relatively expensive, it is worth it.
We will use it to strengthen our paper model.
Everyone\'s favorite hobby glue!
Tile grouting-you can buy it at any hardware store.
Try to pick a color that matches your tile.
Model for placing mosaics-you can make paper sculptures as per other tutorials above me.
You can also use any other model that is strong and rigid (
But skip steps 1 and 2).
Some disposable cups, gloves, candy bars and kitchen rolls.
With any sticky paper model, the edges where two pieces of paper meet will never be perfect.
These all need to be sealed before we go ahead, otherwise it will get messy.
Place a small amount of pva glue on the gaps and holes on the paper to seal them.
Lighting the torch through the model to show any gaps and defects you need to fill may be worth it.
The model also needs to have a hole large enough in it to see a lot inside.
Try to find a place that you can\'t see afterwards, cut it off with scissors.
This is where we pour the resin into the model and manage it in the model.
I dug a hole under my rabbit and it was on the floor so I couldn\'t see it.
Some information about resin . . . . . . Resin is a great material.
It usually consists of two parts of the fluid, when mixed into a solid and durable plastic.
There are many different types of resin used for all different purposes, finishes, set time, etc. Resin (Like everything.
Each price range has different results.
Based on my personal experience with the resin, I definitely recommend using the \"medium quality\" resin ,(
Usually £ 15 per kilogram).
Buying \"cheap\" resin is usually a nightmare that creates a terrible look.
In addition, expensive \"high quality\" resin (
30 per kilogram)
In most cases, there is not much difference from the medium range unless used for special purposes.
For this project and most of the projects I use, I purchased 2 kg Polycraft FC-3680.
It\'s just a resin that I think works best for my project and is very easy to use.
It also has no taste at all compared to other resins, and during the months after use I had to endure the smell;
Even at home, I am happy to have this resin set.
This method is usually used to create the final casting from the mold.
I found that it can enhance the card model effectively.
The art of Slushcast, also known as rotocast or rolling casting, is to pour the resin into the mold and roll until it sets, covering all parts of the mold.
The first thing is that the resin is not very good in your hands and is usually very toxic to intake, so I obviously strongly recommend not to eat it . . . . . . When dealing with resin, you should wear gloves in order to avoid wearing plastic that will not fall off for a week or so on your hand.
Each resin has its own instructions, so read the labels on the bottle to find the mixing ratio you need.
Before mixing, it may be helpful to pour the scale into a separate container;
They are usually measured by weight, so use some balances to find the correct quantity.
The use of a polypropylene Cup is very effective for the resin, once the resin is solidified, it can be broken and the Cup can be used again.
For the first layer, the mix is about 100 in total-
Put 200 ml of the resin into the container;
Quickly mix the two parts together with a sugar stick.
Pour the mixture into the paper model and quickly start rotating the entire model.
Try rolling the resin along the inner wall covering as many resin as possible.
The goal is to use a uniform amount of resin on all walls (
Try not to let it overflow from your model).
Check constantly in case the resin is still dripping from the gaps on the paper and cleaned up with paper towels.
Once you feel that the resin is heated inside, it no longer has a runny nose or dripping water ,(
This may be in 5-
You scroll the model for 10 minutes)
You can make it dry.
This is your last chance to remove any warping and dents that may occur when using resin in your model.
So use whatever you can support/Hang/balance your model and let it dry in the finished position.
To get the best results, keep the model at room temperature.
The resin should be completely solidified overnight, the second layer can be added using the same process, but you can use more resin.
After two pieces of clothing, your model should be hard enough to start applying glass tiles.
Since the model is difficult, it is a good idea to bring the model and sharp edges to the cinema with some sandpaper.
I didn\'t do this on my model, and encountered some problems when the work was highlighted in a strange angle.
Very gently polish the sharp edges and heavy angles so that they are less prominent ,(
Don\'t go too far because the plastic is only a few millimeters thin).
Use no more nail glue, shop about 1.
5mm to the model.
You can use tools and communicators, but I think the easiest way is to spread it with your fingers (
Unless you are using strong glue that I would recommend not to use)
It\'s better to start with a place where you have a big concave angle, such as under the neck or in the mouth, because this is the most difficult place.
Apply the small tile to the fixer and press it into the glue.
If you use too much or too much pressure, the adhesive will overflow from under the tile, it will damage the beauty, we also need to leave enough space on the side of each tile for grouting, so gently press, use a small amount of adhesive.
Spacing the tiles between 1 and 4mm to get a better look model.
If the tile follows a certain pattern, it looks best, so keep the line of the tile as much as possible.
This is a fairly long process, but there will be a return in the end.
It is understandable that there will be places where your tiles will not fit or will be out of the pattern;
Here, as long as you don\'t leave too much gap between tiles, it is OK to deviate slightly or twist the tiles at a certain angle.
In my opinion, the big gap will destroy the appearance of the mosaic, so try to avoid this situation.
The top of the ear is the hardest part of my rabbit model to fit the tiles, but as long as you try to tilt the tiles and form as many clean \"curves\" as you can, they should look good, especially when complaining.
You can still adjust the area, rotate and push the parts when the adhesive is dry.
If you gently place your hands on a tile, you\'ll notice if any of the tiles come out at a strange angle and push them back or flat.
I suggest doing some small parts at a time so the adhesive doesn\'t harden.
The adhesive should be completely hardened within 24 hours and you can start grouting now.
Tile grouting is the most interesting part of the building.
The grout fills all the small gaps between the tiles and really gives them a professional finish.
When choosing the correct grouting purchase, make sure the \"grouting width\" on the label matches the spacing of the tiles and choose the color that suits you (
I chose a light gray to match the average color of the mirror glass).
Note that the color of most grout is lighter than when applied.
Before starting grouting, make sure to remove any last bit of glue from the surface of the tile and any loose pieces are permanently fixed in place.
You can clean the surface of the tile with a damp cloth and remove the glue from the gap.
Depending on the type of grouting you purchased, their water powder mixing ratio is different.
Mine is measured by weight, so I mix it with a scale and an empty plastic tank.
I found that when using smaller gaps and tiles, it is actually easier to mix less water and use a more viscous grouting material.
With your fingers, grab some grout and push it into all the gaps between the tiles, don\'t worry about putting it on the front of the tile right now, as we will clean it up later.
Make sure you push a lot of stuff into the gap and apply it from the tile to the gap between the tiles.
When the tile area is filled with grout, wipe the tile with cloth or clean hands.
Doing so will remove excess grouting from the front.
When you wipe the front of the tile, you will notice that the grout is left in the gap between the tiles;
Try leaving enough Grout in these gaps so they bend slightly below the surface of the tile.
A good way to make sure the perfect amount is to run your finger from a low tile to a slightly higher tile so that you can remove enough and leave the perfect mud.
It is best to use the small area of the model at once to ensure that the grouting does not Harden on the surface of the tile.
Make sure all the visible surfaces of the tile are wiped clean before setting, as it is a nightmare.
Let your model dry at room temperature for 24 hours and the grouting will start.
Now all you need to do is wipe it with a damp cloth!
I have included Pepakura and PDF file for this rabbit if you want to go.
Thank you for reading this manual and I hope this project will be as pleasant to you as I am. Happy making! Thanks youMarco :)